Heading out at around 9 we went to an Okonomiyaki shop to try our hands at a what we refer to as Japanese pizza but it's far from pizza as it can more accurately be compared to a pan cake.
Okonomiyaki is a dish that is cooked on a hotplate consisting of a pancake like mixtures mixed in with cabbage and a variety of meats. This is then poured on the hot plate and cooked right in front of you tepanyaki style. I've had this dish a few times in the US and even made it myself a number of times. It's not very difficult as it can be anything you want. It was delicious and great to have it in a very old establishment with an aged ambience. The restaurant wreaked of a bad american greasy diner but in a good way and it wasn't dirty like one. Because food has been cooked on the skillet here for over 60 years, it has taken on a lot of flavor of its food.
The cooking process was simple and it only took 10 minutes before it was done and ready to eat. If you want to try your hand at an authentic dish that many westerners don't know about, go to a small mom and pop japanese restaurant and ask if they can prepare Okonomiyaki for you. You will be pleasantly surprised.
Stuffed and ready to check out the night scene we decided the walk around Shinjuku's happening areas.
The place was buzzing with activity as many Japanese head here for some night time activities after a long week of work. Shinjuku is known for their cheap eats, cheap drinks and cheap women or as many call it, the red light district. Compared to other parts of Tokyo, it has a very different look and feel, darker, seedier. The streets are populated with pretty boys dressed in suits with earpieces monitoring the streets. In the past (and possibly today) this place was heavily run by Yakuza but recent police action has put them underground but their presence can still be sensed.
Among the throngs of people are groups Africans (mostly Nigerians) roaming the streets, typically here illegally. They look for people out of place and start to talk toy you in english. The Japanese here despise them but tolerate their presence and this is not saying all africans are despised as many live here but the ones that work the streets are aggressive, rude and imposing. Having been thoroughly briefed on these people, you just walk on and ignore them as they are peddling their wares of drugs and women. Many walk on as they spout out English words like "how are you today" and "What are you doing here" among other things, it's like a game they play.
One in particular approached us tonight wearing a yellow shirt. He said something to us and we ignored him but being an old crotchety local, Michi's father told him to go away in English. This triggered a response from him as he followed him asking for money. We just walked on but things got escalated when he touched her father on his shoulder which is a big no no. Being thoroughly pissed off, he takes out his iPhone and mimics taking his picture. You see, taking pictures of one of these people is not taken lightly here since it is a major threat akin to pointing a gun in someones face. They are deathly afraid of having their pictures taken since it can be identified and used to deport them from the country.
This picture was taken without his notice as I am deft with my photography skills (he did notice the camera but I had to put away by the time he asked me about it and I always leave my camera in no flash stealth mode). The mere act can illicit response which in this case brought in the area chief. He then proceeded to walk with us down the alley talking to people along the way.
He and three others followed us down the way to the main road still taking to Michi's father as he kept telling him to go away and not to walk with us. He just responds with "I'm walking down the way, no problems." Things came to a head as they demanded him to delete the photos off his phone and they blocked our path. Mind you, we were on the main street in Shinjuku with hundreds of people walking by during this altercation so it wasn't like we were in a deserted dark alley (which would have been far worse). The other thing was that they didn't understand our relation to him and considered us as by standards. We called the police and they stood by arguing with him. We went into a raimen shop and had the shopkeeper call the police. We waited inside as they left and then outside for the police for a good half our, or what felt like half an hour. They came back bringing their head boss. A well dressed African with a tie who proceeded to diffuse the situation and told the area boss and instigator to leave. The police finally came and took his report. We left Shinjuku for Shibuya to see what that area has to offer.
Hitting the train station, we took it two stops to Shibuya.
It was midnight then and the streets were buzzing but not very busy. It was late and many by now are starting to head back. Shibuya was very clean without the nefarious elements roaming the streets. Having been rattled by the Shinjuku experience we weren't really in the mood for a club and went to Don Xioty (a Japanese version of Walmart) or as I affectionately call penguin land given their mascot is a blue penguin. Michi shopped for a Yukata and I looked around in the store for half an hour.
Looking at the populated Karaoke shops, we walked around seeing Japanese enjoying their night.
We left and walked to Shibuya station where I took some nice night time pictures.
After we were done we didn't realize the time, 1:15, the trains have stopped running! we were only four miles from Shinjuku so our options were to take a $20 taxi or walk. We decided to enjoy the night and walk the 4 miles. It was dead at that hour with only a few drunk patrons roaming the streets trying to get back home. It was a good long one hour walk and we were glad to be home at 2:30.
Having drank a traditional Japanese energy drink I wasn't actually tired so we stayed up and talked till 5 am while I worked since it was 10-12 in Phoenix and I was able to get some critical work done this Friday. Going finally to sleep at 5 am, I reflect on the long day and look forward to a good weekend with some shopping, festivals and Ropingi for a night life experience.
- new blog composed and posted from my iPad, please comment and like when you read this!
Location:２丁目,Shinjuku Ward,Japan
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